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The brake caliper is the business end of your braking system. The brake caliper does the physical end-user work that applies the pressure to the brake pads to slow down the brake rotor, which is attached to the wheel hub assembly. The brake caliper is a hydraulic piston that uses brake fluid that is pressurized from the master cylinder with some braking assist, either vacuum or hydraulic. Over time, various braking system components can become corroded and sticky, causing the vehicle to brake unevenly. It is important to have your brakes inspected regularly.
A brake caliper gets bad symptoms because of the following:
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You may also feel shaking in your seat, which might increase after carrying heavy loads.
The brake rotors are attached to your vehicle's axles, which connect them to your steering. The heat generated from the friction of excessive braking can cause these rotors to warp. When the rotors warp, you might notice a shaking in the steering wheel that stops once the brakes are released.
You might also notice smoke coming from one of the wheels, the vehicle slowing down by itself, fluid leaks from a wheel, and unusual sounds.
Brake pads are attached to your car's caliper saddle. The saddle has metal slides that keep the pads in place and help them apply pressure to the rotor. If these slides become clogged with rust or debris, the pads can stick and cause uneven wear. When only one of the slides sticks, it'll pull the vehicle in one direction when braking.
You might also notice this symptom when turning left or right. In addition, the car might produce humming sounds and vibrations or even affect fuel consumption.
The brake pads, made of friction material, are essential in braking. When applying the brakes, the friction material contacts the rotor, squeezing the caliper to slow the vehicle. But when the friction material wears out, the metal plate touches the rotor, making a grinding noise and sensation when braking. This happens when the brake pads are old and worn.
The brake caliper uses brake fluid pressure to push the brake pads onto the rotors and slow down the car. Because of heat and wear, leaks can happen, causing brake fluid to drip onto the tire and ground inside the wheel area.
The brake caliper has a piston that moves back and forth inside a chamber. So, it has its own space to operate. A special o-ring helps retract the piston, and a dust boot keeps dirt out. If something gets inside the chamber, the o-ring can't work correctly, and one side of the brakes might not release fully after braking. This can lead to uneven brake pressure and pulling to one side when you stop and release the brakes.
The master cylinder is the part generating and distributing fluid pressure to engage the brakes. It has a piston that moves when you press the brake pedals, which transmits pressure to the brake calipers; it has some rubber cups to help seal the brake fluid. Over time, these cups wear out, causing fluid to leak between the master cylinder and booster. When this happens, the brake pedal can feel weak and might sink to the floor when you press it.
Explore the following typical inspection results that show a potential cause for the symptom and select the one you believe is similar to your vehicle's issue.
The image provides proof of the leak from the bad brake calipers, leaking brake fluid behind the wheel.
A customer brought in their vehicle because there were strange marks on the inner part of the driver's front tire. They also saw clear liquid on the ground where they park, sometimes even on the tire tread itself. They also mentioned feeling a spongy brake pedal.
During a test drive, the technician didn't notice anything about the customer's concerns. However, during a vehicle health inspection, the technician found brake fluid leaking from the right front brakes.
To investigate further, the technician cleaned the wheel and brake caliper assembly. With an assistant inside the vehicle, the technician lifted the vehicle on a lift and had the assistant apply and hold the brakes firmly. This made the leak seep from the area where the brake caliper was put together, confirming the mechanic's suspicion.
Based on that, the technician recommends replacing both front brake calipers.
The proof image shows the inboard pad worn down to the metal and the outboard pad having minimal wear.
A customer brought their vehicle in because of a grinding noise from the right front side. This noise started after braking suddenly on the freeway, and now it's happening every time they use the brakes.
During a test drive, the technician could confirm the grinding noise when braking, so they drove the vehicle to the service bay for closer inspection. The technician started checking the entire brake system.
Then, the technician found that the inboard brake pad on the right front wheel was worn to the point where metal was rubbing against metal. On the other hand, the outboard brake pad still had a good thickness remaining.
Next, the technician discovered that the outboard piston of the right front brake caliper was stuck, causing uneven brake pad wear. As a result, most of the braking pressure was directed to the inboard piston, overstressing it.
Unfortunately, the rotor also suffered damage due to the stuck piston in the caliper. Given the extent of the issues, the technician recommends replacing both front calipers, front rotors, and brake pads. They also suggest a brake system flush to remove any old or contaminated brake fluid to ensure the brake system is fully restored.
The proof image shows the broken and stuck brake caliper slide pin, which requires replacement to fix the brake pull issue.
A customer brought their vehicle in because it was veering to the right like it had alignment issues. They also shared that, when driving straight, the car would swerve off to the right as soon as they pressed the brakes.
During a test drive, the technician experienced the same behavior. The vehicle drove straight until braking, at which point it pulled to the right. The harder the brakes were applied, the stronger the swerving.
Upon a vehicle health inspection, the technician saw that the right front rotor had hot spots, and there was uneven wear on the left front wheel brake pads. Next, the technician started checking all of the brake systems, finding that the slide pins in the left front brake caliper were stuck. Then, when trying to release the caliper, they found that one of the slide pins broke off, and a fragment remained stuck in the caliper. Consequently, the brake caliper fails to perform.
To address these issues and restore proper functionality, the technician recommends replacing both the front calipers and the brake pads due to uneven pad wear. Additionally, due to the significant hot spotting on the right front rotor, it's also advised to replace the front rotors.
The proof image shows a damaged piston seal, which caused rust in the piston housing, preventing the piston from moving properly. This damage is contributing to the vehicle's pulling issue.
A customer dropped off their vehicle because it was pulling strongly to the left and they thought it might need an alignment. The pull is most noticeable after braking, but it becomes weaker the longer they drive.
On a test drive, the technician confirmed the left-side pull after braking; it lessened when braking more times. The steering wheel remained straight, and after more brakes, the pull disappeared.
During a vehicle health inspection, the technician noticed that the left front brake pads were thinner than the right side, and the left front brake rotor had areas of increased heat, called hot spots.
Investigating further, the technician discovered that the boot around the left front brake caliper piston was torn. This issue made it difficult to push the piston into its chamber. To address this, the technician recommends replacing both front calipers and rotors due to the hot spots, along with the brake pads due to excessive wear on the left side.
The proof image shows the leak between the master cylinder and the brake booster, providing visual evidence of the issue.
A dropped off their vehicle because the brake pedal was sinking to the floor if they pressed it for too long.
During a test drive, the technician noticed that the brake pedal lost its firmness when stopping at a red light and holding it.
During a vehicle health inspection, the technician discovered a leak between the master cylinder and the brake booster. Apart from this issue, no other problems were found in the braking system. The brake pads and rotors were in good condition.
To assess the leak between the master cylinder and the brake booster, the technician removed the vacuum port on the brake booster to check if fluid seeped into it, luckily it didn't. To resolve this, the technician suggests replacing the master cylinder and performing a brake system flush to remove any residue that might be causing problems.
The proof image shows the brake rotor with visible hot spots, illustrating the warping that is causing the shaking in the steering wheel.
A customer brought in their vehicle because its steering wheel was shaking. They suspected that an alignment might be needed and mentioned they only felt the shaking when braking.
During a test drive, the technician confirmed a significant shaking coming from the front of the vehicle when the brakes were applied.
In a vehicle health inspection, the technician saw that the front rotors displayed areas of increased heat, known as hot spots. Additionally, the technician noticed that the front brake pads had worn down to 5 mm, which is too low, and had an uneven taper.
Further investigation into the front brakes revealed that both front rotors were hot-spotted and warped. So, the technician employed a dial gauge tool to measure the outer part of the rotor's surface, discovering that it was highly out of alignment.
To address these problems, the technician recommends replacing the front rotors and brake pads due to the wear and taper issue.
brake hose. symptoms of a bad sticking brake caliper. bleeder screw.